Back in New York for a conference, I head out of my
disappointing hotel for dinner, which I plan to have at A Dish of Salt –- the
Chinese restaurant where I had dinner the night after I took my first
deposition ever, in Rockefeller Center, on a snowy night in December, just days
after I was admitted to the bar.
I set off down 5th
Avenue, past the places that I know. FAO Schwartz, Rockefeller Center,
St. Patrick’s. Along the way I angle around a bit, looking for stores or
buildings or anything that catches my eye and triggers some memory of a place I
walked to just once before, years ago, in the same way that I can walk up a
stream for just the second time, years after the first, and remember riffles
between the rocks where I found trout.
Sure enough, by following the little things that catch my eye, I
come right onto A Dish of Salt. “Closed this evening for a private
party,” the little sign says. Ah well.
I set off down the street again, looking now for
inspiration. Along the way I remember reading something in a magazine
about the Oyster Bar at Grand Central, so off I tack in that direction.
And so, at my little table among the other crowded little
tables, I have a Brooklyn Pilsner, some Duck Point oysters, and then a plate of
grilled smelts, which I sprinkle with sea salt, and coleslaw. All of
which seems fabulous.
You can have your private party this evening. And I will
have mine.
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